作為山東工藝美術學院服裝設計專業(yè)的首屆畢業(yè)生，呂學海在入學之前曾在企業(yè)做過多年的服裝生產與技術管理工作，有著豐富的實踐經驗。1987 年畢業(yè)留校任教以來，長期致力于設計藝術與工藝技術方面的教學研究，編纂了多部教材，獲得了多項省級優(yōu)秀教學成果及科研成果獎。他樂于求知，勤于探索，治學耕耘，勤學不輟，在近天命之年考取了蘇州大學博士研究生，面壁四載，完成了博士論文并取得學位。本書也是在其博士論文基礎上經過補充和完善形成的又一成果。天道酬勤，呂學海的該項研究經過層層篩選于2009 年獲得國家社科基金藝術學項目立項。應該說，這一研究改變了將“設計”與“工程”分離的研究方式，為服裝設計理論建設和方法改良做了有益的嘗試；提出了以“藝術賦形”為主導的技術思想，就實現(xiàn)設計藝術與科學技術的有機結合提出了一種比較新的研究思路；同時，基于圖形學原理的服裝技術試驗，從一個新的角度對服裝結構原理與計算方法進行了求證，強化了技術原理與設計造型之間的內在聯(lián)系；通過對設計過程要素的整合，建立了服裝系統(tǒng)設計過程模型，為設計者提供了一種普遍聯(lián)系的思維引導工具?！久襟w評論】評論【目錄】目錄 第1章緒論 ·······001 1.1 研究背景及意義 ··································004 1.1.1 從“量體裁衣”到系統(tǒng)設計 ····················005 1.1.2 服裝系統(tǒng)設計研究的理論價值 ·················007 1.1.3 構建系統(tǒng)設計方法的實踐意義 ·················010 1.2 研究內容及理論基礎 ····························012 1.2.1 一般系統(tǒng)論思想 ···································013 1.2.2 設計過程理論 ····016 1.2.3 傳統(tǒng)造物觀念 ····019 1.3 研究思路與基本觀點 ····························023 1.3.1 設計總體上是一個邏輯的過程 ·················023 1.3.2 整體觀念是設計過程的核心 ····················026 1.3.3 科學化是設計方法發(fā)展的趨勢 ·················027 1.4 國內外研究現(xiàn)狀分析 ····························030 1.4.1 國外研究現(xiàn)狀 ····030 1.4.2 國內研究現(xiàn)狀 ····034 1.4.3 存在問題分析 ····036 1.5 研究方法及論文組織 ····························036 1.5.1 研究方法 ··········036 1.5.2 繼承與創(chuàng)新 ·······038 1.5.3 內容組織 ··········039第2 章服裝設計的一般過程及知識框架······················· 0432.1 設計過程的概念辨析 ···························· 044 2.1.1 設計與過程 ·······045 2.1.2 過程與階段 ·······046 2.1.3 階段與程序 ·······048 2.2 服裝系統(tǒng)設計的構成要素 ······················ 049 2.2.1 設計對象與產品定義 ·····························050 2.2.2 設計問題與設計內容 ·····························052 2.2.3 設計原則與設計任務 ·····························054 2.2.4 設計知識與設計流程 ·····························058 2.2.5 設計創(chuàng)意與技術實現(xiàn) ·····························061 2.2.6 設計評價與方案優(yōu)化 ·····························064 2.3 服裝系統(tǒng)設計的相關研究 ······················ 067 2.3.1 服裝功能與屬性 ···································068 2.3.2 服裝形態(tài)與元素 ···································071 2.3.3 服裝結構與工藝 ···································074 2.3.4 服裝色彩與材料 ···································077 2.3.5 設計藝術與科學技術 ·····························083 2.3.6 設計觀與方法論 ···································085 2.4 服裝系統(tǒng)設計的運行模式 ······················ 089 2.4.1 串行模式 ··········091 2.4.2 并行模式 ··········093 2.4.3 循環(huán)模式 ··········094 2.4.4 系統(tǒng)模式 ··········095 2.5 服裝系統(tǒng)設計的一般過程 ······················ 096 2.5.1 任務分析與目標確認 ·····························0972.5.2 設計調研與資料收集 ·····························0992.5.3 需求分析與產品定位 ·····························1012.5.4 設計創(chuàng)意與視覺表達 ·····························1042.5.5 設計評價與方案優(yōu)化 ·····························1062.5.6 結構設計與紙樣制作 ·····························1072.5.7 工藝設計與樣衣試制 ·····························1092.5.8 綜合評價與生產準備 ····························· 1102.5.9 批量生產與市場反饋 ····························· 111 小結························· 111第3 章服裝創(chuàng)意的理論基礎與生成機制························ 1153.1 創(chuàng)意理論的產生與發(fā)展 ························· 1173.1.1 創(chuàng)意概念的內涵 ··································· 1173.1.2 創(chuàng)意方法的研究 ··································· 1193.1.3 服裝創(chuàng)意的本質 ···································1213.2 服裝創(chuàng)意的相關理論 ···························· 1223.2.1 “魔島”與“萬花筒”理論 ····················123 3.2.2 “拼圖”與“組合”理論 ·······················1253.2.3 “遷移”與“變通”理論 ······················1263.2.4 等價轉換理論 ····1273.3 服裝創(chuàng)意的基本方法 ··························· 1303.3.1 集思廣益的智力激勵法 ··························1303.3.2 科學理性的特征列舉法 ·························1323.3.3 變陌生為熟悉的綜攝法 ··························1343.3.4 由設問引發(fā)創(chuàng)意的核對單法 ····················137 3.3.5 基于系統(tǒng)觀的形態(tài)分析法 ·······················1383.3.6 師法自然的生物模擬法 ··························1403.3.7 感性工學之語義微分法 ·························1413.4 服裝創(chuàng)意的思維特征 ···························· 1443.4.1 感性與理性的結合 ································1453.4.2 發(fā)散與收斂的循環(huán) ································1473.4.3 直覺與靈感的捕捉 ································1503.4.4 聯(lián)想與想象的延伸 ································1523.4.5 綜合與系統(tǒng)的梳理 ································1563.5 服裝創(chuàng)意的生成機制 ···························· 1573.5.1 服裝創(chuàng)意的素材 ···································1583.5.2 服裝創(chuàng)意的條件 ···································1603.5.3 服裝創(chuàng)意的原理 ···································1623.5.4 服裝創(chuàng)意的引導 ···································1693.6 服裝創(chuàng)意的一般過程 ···························· 1733.6.1 提出問題階段 ····1743.6.2 創(chuàng)意醞釀階段 ····1753.6.3 創(chuàng)意孵化階段 ····1763.6.4 創(chuàng)意完成階段 ····1773.6.5 創(chuàng)意完善階段 ····1793.6.6 創(chuàng)意表達階段 ····180 小結·························181第4 章服裝設計的物化觀念與技術思想························· 1854.1 設計物化觀決定技術方法論 ···················1874.1.1 物化概念及其技術思想 ··························1874.1.2 功能與形態(tài)的辯證統(tǒng)一 ··························1904.1.3 藝術與技術的協(xié)同發(fā)展 ··························1934.2 服裝技術研究的科學觀 ························· 1974.2.1 服裝形態(tài)的構成原理 ·····························1974.2.2 服裝結構的表現(xiàn)形式 ·····························2044.2.3 服裝技術的系統(tǒng)建構 ····························2064.3 服裝技術研究的藝術觀 ························· 2094.3.1 服裝形態(tài)的審美特征 ·····························2104.3.2 服裝形態(tài)的符號意義 ·····························2124.3.3 服裝物化中的技術美 ·····························2164.4 服裝技術研究的方法論 ························· 2184.4.1 面向實踐的技術原則 ·····························2194.4.2 辯證統(tǒng)一的造物觀念 ·····························2214.4.3 藝術賦形的技術觀點 ·····························2244.4.4 科學系統(tǒng)的操作程序 ·····························2264.5 服裝物化的一般過程 ···························· 2274.5.1 形態(tài)分析 ··········2294.5.2 功能分析 ··········2294.5.3 材料分析 ··········2304.5.4 結構分析 ··········2314.5.5 紙樣設計 ··········2314.5.6 工藝設計 ··········2324.5.7 樣衣試制 ··········2334.5.8 綜合評價 ··········2334.5.9 系列紙樣 ··········2344.5.10 生產應用 ·········234 小結·························235第5 章服裝形態(tài)的構成原理及相關實驗··············· 2395.1 實驗概述 ········· 2405.1.1 實驗目的及意義 ···································2415.1.2 實驗內容與方法 ···································2425.1.3 實驗手段及步驟 ···································2425.2 人體圖像采集與測量 ···························· 2445.2.1 人體圖像采集 ····2445.2.2 人體圖形歸納 ····2455.2.3 人體圖形測量 ····2475.2.4 測量數據分析 ····2475.3 領型結構原理與計算 ···························· 2485.3.1 領圈的構成原理與計算 ··························2485.3.2 領子的構成原理與變化規(guī)律 ····················251 5.3.3 關于領子松量的計算 ·····························2555.3.4 領型結構原理在制圖中的應用 ·················2605.4 袖型結構原理與計算 ···························· 2635.4.1 袖型結構原理解析 ································2635.4.2 袖山結構原理與計算 ·····························2645.4.3 袖窿結構原理與計算 ·····························2655.4.4 肩線的傾斜量與計算 ·····························2675.5 衣身結構原理與計算 ···························· 2695.5.1 人體截面形態(tài)分析 ································2705.5.2 人體數學模型的構建與測量 ····················272 5.5.3 服裝應用制圖的生成與計算 ····················275小結·························280第6 章服裝系統(tǒng)設計方法的構建及應用················· 2836.1 服裝系統(tǒng)設計過程整合 ························· 2846.1.1 系統(tǒng)設計過程模型的構架 ·······················2856.1.2 系統(tǒng)設計過程的運行模式 ·······················2866.1.3 系統(tǒng)設計過程模型的整合 ·······················2876.1.4 系統(tǒng)設計過程模型的應用 ·······················2896.2 服裝系統(tǒng)設計案例分析 ························· 2906.2.1 設計準備階段 ····2906.2.2 設計創(chuàng)意階段 ····3016.2.3 設計物化階段 ····3146.2.4 設計完成階段 ····320 小結·························321第7 章結論······· 3237.1 系統(tǒng)化是設計發(fā)展的客觀要求 ················ 3257.2 程序化是設計過程的有效機制 ················ 3267.3 藝術化是服裝技術的最高境界 ················ 3277.4 科學化是設計方法的必然趨勢 ················ 327參考文獻················ 329 附錄A ··················· 336 附錄B ··················· 346 附錄C ··················· 353 附錄D ··················· 358 附錄E ··················· 359 附錄F ··················· 361 后記······················ 367
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